Henna Brows Step by Step: The Full Salon Treatment with Della & Delle

Henna brows step by step, in short: patch test first, then cleanse and fully dry the brow area, map the shape, mix the henna powder with mineral or filtered water to a “ketchup” texture, let it rest for 15 minutes, apply it with an angled brush, leave it to develop for 5 to 45 minutes, remove it with damp cotton, and finish with a softener and a highlighter. That is the whole treatment. The rest of this guide explains each step and why it matters.

We use the Della & Delle range throughout, because it covers every stage of the service: skincare for prep, the brow henna itself, two brushes, a henna softener and a beige highlighter pencil. If you were looking for Della Delle henna instructions, this is the salon routine built around those products. You can see everything on the Della & Delle brand page; the range is arriving soon at Brow Lash World, and you can sign up for the stock alert on each product page.

Henna brows: the steps at a glance

1. Consultation and patch test
2. Skin prep: cleanse, tone, dry
3. Mapping the brow shape
4. Choosing the shade
5. Mixing the henna
6. Applying the henna
7. Development time
8. Removal
9. Clean-up and ombré with the softener
10. Finishing with the highlighter
11. Aftercare

Step 1: Consultation and patch test

Every henna service starts with a conversation. Ask the client what they want: a soft, natural brow or a more defined, graphic one. Look at their natural hair colour, their skin tone and any sparse areas, growth gaps or grey hairs. Those details decide the shade and how much work the henna has to do on the skin.

Then the patch test. Della & Delle’s instructions are clear: apply the henna to the forearm for 3 hours, then watch the area for 48 hours. If redness, itching or swelling appears, do not use the product. The manufacturer asks for the test even if the client has had henna before, and says to repeat it before every application. The henna is an oxidising hair colour for brows, so treat this step as non-negotiable and never use it on skin that reacted to the test.

Step 2: Skin prep

According to the manufacturer, brow henna takes faster and lasts longer on clean, fully dry skin.

Cleanse with the Facial Cleansing Mousse

The Della & Delle Facial Cleansing Mousse is a gentle foam with white lily extract that cleans the skin without drying it, which suits sensitive and delicate skin. It is widely used for cleansing before lash lifting and brow design. Apply it to the damp brow area, massage gently with circular movements and rinse with lukewarm water.

Tone with the Facial Cleansing Tonic

Next comes the Facial Cleansing Tonic, with rice extract and D-Panthenol, free of alcohol and parabens. Put it on a cotton pad and wipe over the brow area to remove the last traces of make-up and impurities. Keep it away from the eye area.

Let the skin dry completely

Henna goes onto dry skin, so wait until the brow area is fully dry before you continue.

Exfoliation is a separate, optional step. The Della & Delle Facial Scrub with rice micro-granules removes dead skin cells, but it must not be used on irritated or damaged skin, and its timing needs some thought. We cover it in our guide to skin prep before brow henna.

Step 3: Mapping the brow shape

Mapping is general brow technique, and you probably have your own method. Usually, artists mark the start, the arch and the tail in relation to the client’s features, check symmetry from the front, and draw an outline with a pencil or mapping string before any colour goes on.

Take your time here. Henna colours the skin as well as the hairs, so the outline you draw is the shape the client will wear for days.

Step 4: Choosing the shade

Della & Delle Brow Henna comes in five shades: Light Brown, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, Black and Black Intense. The manufacturer describes Light Brown and Medium Brown as often chosen for fair skin and blonde or red hair, and Dark Brown, Black and Black Intense as often chosen for brown and black hair. Black Intense gives the most marked result, with a neutral tone.

The shades can be mixed to reach the tone you want, which helps when a client sits between two shades. For a shade-by-shade breakdown and mixing ideas, read our guide to Della & Delle brow henna shades and sizes.

The henna comes in three jar sizes, 1.5 g, 3 g and 8 g: the same henna, shades and formula in each, for around 15, 30 or 75 applications.

Step 5: Mixing the henna

Mix the powder with mineral or filtered water only, nothing else. Add the water little by little and stir until you reach a “ketchup” texture: thick enough to stay where you place it, fluid enough to spread over hairs and skin.

Then let the mix rest for 15 minutes before you apply it. Use that time to finish the mapping or to talk the client through what to expect. Close the jar straight away: the manufacturer asks you to put the clear inner seal plug back after use so the powder does not oxidise, and to store the jar tightly closed, away from light and heat.

Step 6: Applying the henna

Della & Delle makes two brushes for this. The Safira Henna Brush has a single angled tip and is made for both henna application and finishing. Brush 01 is double-ended: an angled end to fill and a fine end for details, the outline and small gaps. Which one suits you is a matter of workflow; we compare them in Safira vs Brush 01.

Fill

Load the angled tip with henna and fill the brow by dabbing lightly rather than painting long strokes. Work across the whole brow until it is evenly covered. As a rule, many artists leave the front of the brow until last so it stays softer than the body and tail.

Refine

Switch to the fine end of Brush 01, or use the tip of the Safira, to clean up the outline, sharpen the edges and fill small gaps. Then align the shape before the development time starts. Henna outside the line stains the skin too, so correct mistakes now, not after.

Step 7: Development time

Leave the henna on for 5 to 45 minutes, depending on the intensity you want. For Black Intense, the range is 3 to 45 minutes. A shorter time gives a softer result, a longer time a deeper one.

The range is wide, so let the client’s goal and your consultation notes guide you, and follow the product instructions. If you are unsure, it is usually wiser to stay a little lighter: you can go deeper at the next appointment, and the softener helps if a result comes out too strong.

Step 8: Removal

Remove the henna with cotton soaked in water. Wipe gently and change the cotton as it picks up colour, until the paste is gone from the hairs and the skin. Avoid harsh rubbing: it irritates the skin and may lift the colour unevenly.

Step 9: Clean-up and ombré with the softener

Right after removal, the Della & Delle Henna Softener gives you control over the final result. It acts on the intensity of the henna, softening and lightening it, and helps remove stains and excess henna around the design. Moisten a cotton-tipped stick or a brush with the softener and rub lightly over the area you want to soften or clean up. Alternatively, put a drop directly on the skin and work it gently with cotton or a spoolie until you reach the effect you want.

Two uses matter most in the salon. For an ombré brow, soften the front so it fades into the stronger body and tail. For a crisp outline, run the softener along any edge that looks harsh. It can also neutralise henna that has turned greenish, and it works the same way on stains outside the brow area. There is no need to remove it afterwards.

Step 10: Finishing with the highlighter

The final touch is the Beige Highlighter Brow Pencil. Drawn under the arch or along the contour, it brightens the area around the brow, emphasises the shape and makes a fresh henna application stand out. Glide the pencil lightly over the skin without pressing, then blend if you want a softer edge.

Step 11: Aftercare

According to the manufacturer, the fixative in the formula helps the henna adhere to the hairs and gives a water-resistant result that lasts 3 to 15 days on the skin, depending on skin type.

For aftercare, follow the product instructions and your salon protocol. As general advice, many artists ask clients to keep the brow area dry and free of oily products in the first hours after the treatment, since oils and cleansing tend to shorten the stain on the skin.

The treatment in one table

FAQ

Do I need a patch test if the client has had henna before?

Yes. The manufacturer asks for a patch test even if the product has been used before, and says to repeat it before every application: 3 hours on the forearm, then watch the area for 48 hours.

Can henna work on sparse or grey brows?

According to the manufacturer, Della & Delle Brow Henna fills sparse areas, growth gaps and grey hairs, and suits clients who want a fuller, well-shaped and clearly defined brow.

What if the result is too dark or turns greenish?

Use the Henna Softener right after removal. It softens and lightens the intensity, cleans up the outline and can neutralise henna that has turned greenish.

What does the manufacturer say about safety and certification?

The henna contains no ammonia or parabens. It is cruelty-free, vegan and PETA certified, according to the manufacturer, and according to the supplier it is covered by a safety certificate from the Brazilian Health Agency (ANVISA) and notified on the European CPNP portal.